Veikka’s dispatches, 12.7. & 13.7.2009
Veikka and Kazuya started a summit attempt 6 o’clock on saturday. They climbed 4 hours up to Camp 1. Slept 14 hours. Continued pushing forward on sunday on to Camp 2, to 6400m.
They faced a snow storm and strong winds at 3 o’clock this morning. They had to reverse back for safety reasons. They could have stayed at 6400m in a snow cave and wait for the storm to pass, but there would have still been the risk of avalanches on the route on the way up and down. There was also a prediction of 100km/h winds at the altitude of the Camp 2 and higher speeds above it.
Leader on the Japanese Couloir. (Photo courtesy of Veikka Gustafsson).
There were no one else on the Japanese Couloir at the same time. Now they are in the safety of the base camp. They got back very tired from the fast retrieve from high altitudes. For the next summit push Veikka and Kazuya want a good solid weather forecast, which haven’t been accurate lately. They saw climbers backing down from G2 also.
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